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The 101 on salt

From the Kalahari to the Sahara, salt is nature’s gift to us so we’re teaching you the tricks of the trade.  

Salt was once literally worth its weight in gold, so much so that Roman soldiers were occasionally paid in it, which is how the word “salary” came to be. Even if we don’t use salt as currency anymore, this common mineral still rules the kitchen the world over and can turn just about anything from bland to bold with just a pinch.  

Africa is blessed with abundant salt pans. In the Kalahari Desert, salt is extracted from an underground salt deposit, more precisely from a long-standing, continuously replenishing and sustainable subsurface salt aquifer. A brine solution is created by dissolving the salt in pure water, and the desert sun is then used to gently dry it. And there we have it — proudly South African Kalahari desert salt.  

More than just a seasoning  

Salt can be used to creatively enhance flavours and textures. In addition to being a theatrical cooking experience, cooking on a thick salt slab gives dishes a subtle saltiness.  

Food that has been salt-crusted, like whole fish, bakes inside a salt shell, retaining moisture and creating exceptionally tender results.  

Adding salt to sweet dishes, such as caramel or chocolate, enhances the richness and complexity of food. Flavoured salts infused with citrus zest, herbs or smoked ingredients are a simple way to add flair to everyday meals.  

Salt as preservative  

Salt’s capacity to extract moisture gives it its preservation properties. Salt curing is a traditional method that changes the texture and flavour of meats like biltong, and even egg yolks, while preserving and enhancing their characteristics.  

Since salt is a hygroscopic material, water is drawn to it. When salt is added to food, it causes the food’s cells to lose water, resulting in a lower moisture content. This is important because moisture is necessary for the growth and multiplication of bacteria, mould, and yeasts. Salt efficiently stops the growth of these micro-organisms by lowering the water content, which delays or stops spoiling.  

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Know the difference  

1. Sea salt  

What it is: Evaporated seawater, contains minerals and complex flavour
What it looks like: Small irregular white crystals
Common uses: Finishing dishes, seasoning meat and vegetables, baking 

2. Kalahari Desert salt 

What it is: A naturally occurring and mineral-rich rock salt from the Kalahari Desert
What it looks like: Coarse, medium or fine white crystals
Common uses: Seasoning, curing 

3. Kosher salt 

What it is: Named after the Koshering process for meat, dissolves easily and enhances flavour without bitterness. Could be sea salt or desert salt 
What it looks like: Larger flaky/ coarse grain white salt 
Common uses: Seasoning, pickling  

4. Himalayan 

What it is: Mineral rich salt from the Himalayas 
What it looks like: Pink crystals, varies in size 
Common uses: Salt slabs, seasoning, curing  

5. Celtic

What it is: Unrefined salt with a high moisture content 
What it looks like: Damp, greyish coarse crystals 
Common uses: Finishing salt, seasoning seafood and broths  

6. Fleur de sel

What it is: Hand-harvested French sea salt
What it looks like: Delicate white flaky crystals
Common uses: Gourmet finishing salt  

7. Namibian pearl salt 

What it is: Premium Sea salt from the coast of Namibia 
What it looks like: Small white pearl-like crystals 
Common uses: Seasoning

 

Salt-crusted chicken 

Serves 4-6 

Crack open the chicken and uncover the magic of theatrical dining. Encasing the chicken in a thick layer of salt results in the most tender chicken, where the meat is gently steamed in its own juices while cooking. 

Ingredients

½ cup each dill and sage (firmly packed)
4 sprigs rosemary, picked
½ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic
2 lemons, zested and juiced
1.8kg whole chicken 

For the salt crust 

5 egg whites
2.5kg coarse cooking salt
½ cup flour
1 Tbsp smoked paprika
2 lemons, zested
2 limes, zested
Milled pepper 

 Method

  1. Preheat oven to 200°C.
  2. In a food processor, pulse the herbs, olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, juice and milled pepper.
  3. Rub the chicken outside and inside the cavity with the herb mix. Quarter the remaining lemon and stuff inside the cavity.
  4. Tie legs with kitchen string.
  5. For the salt crust, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the salt, flour, paprika and citrus zest. Season with pepper. 
  6. Line a baking tray with baking paper and spray with non-stick spray. Place some of the salt crust mixture on the baking tray, about 2cm thick and about 2-3cm larger than the chicken.
  7. Place the chicken on top of the salt mixture.
  8. Pack the remaining salt tightly around the chicken to completely encase the chicken.
  9. Bake for 1½ hours, remove from the oven and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
  10. Crack open the salt crust with a meat mallet and carefully break away the salt crust, gently brushing away any remaining salt on the chicken. Discard the crust.
  11. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and serve with your favourite hearty side dishes.

 

Rib-eye on salt 

Serves 2 

Cooking on a salt slab gives a natural salty undertone and tenderises the meat. You can also heat the slab over the fire when braaiing. 

Ingredients

1 Himalayan salt slab
¼ cup butter, softened
2 tsp smoked salt (see below)
1 Tbsp finely chopped chives
Milled pepper 

For the steak 

2 (250g each) rib-eye steaks
2 Tbsp wholegrain mustard
Milled pepper 

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 200°C.
  2. Place the salt slab in the oven and heat up for 1 hour.
  3. Combine the butter, smoked salt and chives. Season with pepper.
  4. Roll the butter in clingfilm to form a log. Refrigerate.
  5. Rub steak with mustard and season generously with milled pepper on all sides.
  6. Carefully remove the salt slab from the oven and place on a heatproof surface. Sear the steaks on the slab for about 5-6 minutes a side for a medium doneness.
  7. Serve hot steak topped with slices of flavoured butter and sides of choice.

Make your own smoked salt

Line the base of a large pot with foil. Evenly spread about 1 cup wood chips over the foil. Heat the pot on a medium-high heat. Shape a smaller foil ‘basket’ that fits comfortably inside the pot, without touching the sides. Place cup sea salt in the foil. Place a lid on the pot and allow to smoke for about 10-12 minutes. Turn the heat off and allow to cool completely. Store in an airtight container. 

 

Risotto alla carbonara 

Serves 6 

This ancient method for preserving eggs is growing in popularity, transforming the kitchen staple into a taste sensation! Meet the grateable cured egg, whose egg yolk gives the most incredible richness to the risotto. 

Ingredients

For the cured egg yolks 

1½ cups (500g) kosher salt
1 cup (225g) granulated sugar
6 large egg yolks 

For the risotto 

250g streaky bacon, sliced into 1 cm strips
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup cream
Milled pepper
Sunflower shoots or parsley 

 Method

  1. Combine the salt and sugar in a shallow dish.
  2. Make 6 indents in the salt mixture and carefully place the egg yolks in the salt. Sprinkle some of the salt mixture onto the egg yolks to cover them completely. Cover with clingfilm and place the yolks in the fridge to cure for 2-4 days.
  3. Once cured, it is time to dry the yolks. Preheat the oven to 100°C.
  4. Gently remove the yolks from the salt mixture and rinse under a tap. Pat dry with kitchen towel.
  5. Place the yolks on a grid and into the oven for about 1 – 1½ hours.
  6. For the risotto, place the bacon in a large cold pot. Heat the pot to a medium-low temperature to allow the bacon fat to render out and give flavour to the risotto.
  7. Fry the bacon for about 4-5 minutes (once browned, reserve some for garnish).
  8. Add the onion and fry for another 5 minutes.
  9. Add garlic and rice. Toast the rice for about 2-3 minutes while stirring regularly.
  10. Add the wine and stir until evaporated. Lower the heat.
  11. Add ½ cup stock at a time and stir constantly until evaporated aft er each addition. Continue until all the stock is added.
  12. Add ½ cup cream at a time and stir constantly until evaporated aft er each addition. Season with pepper.
  13. Once the rice is al dente, remove from heat. Grate 4 cured yolks into the risotto.
  14. Garnish with reserved bacon, cheese shavings and greens. Serve with extra egg gratings on the side, to add according to taste.

Cook’s note: Cured egg yolks can keep up to a month in the fridge when stored in an airtight container.  

Did you know?

‘Al dente’ in Italian means ‘to the tooth’. To put it simply, it means that rice or pasta is cooked yet still has a bit of texture when bitten and is not completely mushy. 

 

By: Lichelle May
Photography by: Zhann Solomons
Text courtesy of MyKitchen magazine 

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