Eggs are the unsung heroes of so many of our favourite sweet treats. MK deputy food editor Sjaan van der Ploeg lifts the veil on the hard work eggs are doing behind the scenes to transform our cakes, meringues and mousses into showstoppers.
The egg that could
Eggs are the crucial building blocks of baking: sure, they’re not essential for all baking, but when they are included, their role is invaluable. Despite this special role, describing a dessert or baked treat as ‘eggy’ has never been a compliment. ‘Fluffy’, ‘buttery’, ‘creamy’, ‘lemony’ of course, but never ‘eggy’.
The truth is that in fact eggs are a huge reason why baked goods can become fluffy, creamy and buttery. They take a humble backseat, pushing others forward, to help them shine. This makes them the ultimate team player, behind-the-scenes miracle worker and selfless giver. What do they ask of the humble baker in return? Just to be treated right.
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How they make magic
In some cases, though, eggs do in fact get their chance to shine. The ridges, valleys and hills of a pavlova stand up confidently but also delicately. A mixture of both is needed to also make this temperamental treat. And patience. And an oven that doesn’t hate you.
But it’s the making of the pavlova that really puts you into some sort of trance. As your gloopy egg whites begin to whirl and smash against the bowl from the force of the beaters, the tiny, clustered proteins begin to expand. As they unravel, they stretch out almost like arms, working with each other to envelope as many tiny air bubbles as they can, thus forming a large structure full of bubbly, fluffy, cloud-like texture.
When sugar is slowly added to this cloud, the granules interact with the water held within the egg white’s structure, simultaneously dissolving and providing reinforced structure to the mixture.
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This is why a meringue feels more stable when scooped compared to whipped egg whites on their own. Meringue adds a thick volume to a batter, whereas whipped egg white adds a soft volume to a batter. Both still work their magic when they are baked, the millions of air pockets contained securely within the proteins and sugars expanding to create an airy, light bake.
Faith like egg whites
The same goes for making chocolate mousse. Whipped egg whites (or a meringue) are folded into a melted mixture of chocolate, cream and additions like butter and flavourings. The fat from the chocolate and cream suspends the egg white air bubbles, protecting them from collapsing. Once placed in the fridge, the fat then solidifies, fortifying the mixture even further.
When it comes to eggs shaping up cakes, brownies and sturdier baked goods, they work behind the scenes to create a strong foundation. They mix with flour to make a crumb by binding everything in the batter together, especially ingredients that usually don’t mix such as oil and water.
Eggs also contribute towards leavening (or rising) in cakes. The water within their structure turns into steam during cooking, pushing up and expanding the bake to create a lovely lightness and bouncy texture.
Egg yolks enrich a bake, enhancing the flavour, colour and creaminess, while egg whites bring up the volume.
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Eggs are to thank for the versatility and consistency in baking, and they are endless givers. Try these heavenly S’mores chocolate mousse cups to see just how special eggs truly are:
S’mores chocolate mousse cups
Makes 10
Flavour the mousse by dissolving 3 Tbsp instant coffee in 2 Tbsp hot cream. Stir mixture into to the melted chocolate and continue with the recipe.
Ingredients
200g digestive biscuits, crushed + extra for serving
3 Tbsp (45g) butter, melted
380g dark chocolate, chopped
6 large eggs, separated
2 Tbsp (28g) caster sugar
2 cups (500ml) cream
For the meringue
3 egg whites
¾ cup (165g) caster sugar
Method
- Add biscuits to a blender and blitz into crumbs. Stir through the butter.
- Add 2 Tbsp biscuit crumbs to 10 medium-sized glasses.
- Melt chocolate until smooth.
- In a clean bowl, whisk egg whites to stiff peaks.
- In a separate bowl, whisk sugar and cream to stiff peaks.
- Whisk egg yolks through cooled chocolate.
- Mix half the egg white into the chocolate mixture, then fold through the remaining egg white and sugary cream through the mixture.
- Spoon mixture into glasses and refrigerate for 4 hours.
- To make the meringue, whisk egg whites to medium peaks.
- Add sugar 1 Tbsp at a time until it’s glossy, whisking about 10 minutes until sugar is dissolved.
- To serve, top mousse with dollops of meringue, toasting with a blow torch if you like, and add an extra sprinkle of biscuit.
Words and images: Sjaan van der Ploeg
