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Rice to the occasion 

Our Editor puts two classics. ahkni and biryani, in the limelight with his failproof ways to pack flavour and authenticity into each spoon full of deliciousness 

Chicken biryani 

Serves 4 

If using chicken breast fillets, keep them quite large and chunky and reduce the cooking time to about 35-45 minutes as they’ll cook faster than bone-in chicken 

Ingredients

8-10 chicken drumsticks and thighs
6 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 cups buttermilk
3 salad tomatoes, grated
3 cloves garlic, grated
2 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 tsp ground turmeric
1 Tbsp chilli powder
2 Tbsp biryani masala
1 Tbsp garam masala
1 ½ Tbsp medium curry powder
1 cup dried brown lentils
3 cups basmati rice
3 Tbsp canola oil
3 Tbsp ghee
2 onions, chopped
Handful fresh or dried curry leaves
1/3 cup water
Salt and milled pepper
Pinch of saffron (optional)  

For serving

Dhai (see page 54)
Tomato and onion sambal
Fresh coriander 

Method

  1. Add chicken, potatoes, buttermilk, tomatoes, garlic, ginger, and spices into a large bowl. Toss to coat and set aside to marinate for about 1 hour 
  2. Par-cook the lentils for 8-10 minutes, according to packaging instructions. Drain and set aside. 
  3. Par-cook rice according to packaging instructions, about 4 – 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. 
  4. Preheat oven to 180°C. 
  5. Heat 1 Tbsp oil and 1 Tbsp ghee in a pan and fry onions and curry leaves for about 4-6 minutes and set aside. 
  6. Cover the base of a large ovenproof dish (that also has a tight-fitting lid) with the remaining oil, ghee and water. 
  7. Add ½ the rice and lentils and mix to combine. 
  8. Season the chicken mixture generously, then cover the rice and lentils with chicken mixture. 
  9. Top with half the fried onions and repeat with remaining rice, lentils and onions. 
  10. Sprinkle with saffron, cover and bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. 
  11. Serve while hot, drizzled with dhai, and sprinkled with tomato and onion sambal and fresh coriander. 

 

Sambal satisfaction 

There are some traditional accompaniments that are quite simple to make and pairs beautifully with the spicy heartiness of both ahkni and biryani. 

Dhai

Makes ½ cup 

Combine ½ cup buttermilk, ½ tsp ground cumin, ½ tsp garlic powder and 1 tsp chopped fresh coriander. Season well. 

Cucumber raita

Makes ⅔ Cup

In a bowl, combine ½ cup plain yoghurt, ¼ grated cucumber and 1 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander. Season well. 

Tomato & onion sambal 

Makes ½ cup 

In a bowl, add 2 chopped salad tomatoes, ½ chopped red onion, ¼ chopped cucumber and 1 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander. Add ¼ cup white vinegar and 2 Tbsp sugar and stir. Season well. 

Coriander, mint & coconut chutney 

Makes ½ Cup 

Blitz together ½ punnet fresh coriander, handful fresh mint, ¼ Cup canola oil, 3 Tbsp fresh or desiccated coconut, 1 tsp chilli flakes and zest and juice of 1 lemon. Season well.

Ahkni vs Biryani

 

What’s the difference? 

Biryani cooks in a lot less liquid and therefore has a drier consistency. It can also be recognized by its two-tone rice with lentils, which comes from the layering process and the addition of turmeric and saffron. Ahkni uses a lot more liquid, and has a texture that is more monotone with a sticky, clump-like consistency. 

 

Lamb ahkni 

Serves 6 

Can’t find lamb knuckles? Use lamb goulash instead, or any on-the-bone beef cut. 

Ingredients

¼ cup canola oil
6 medium potatoes, peeled
2 Tbsp ghee
2 onions, chopped
5 mixed peppercorns
4 cardamom pods, crushed
4 cinnamon sticks
5 cloves garlic
1½ Tbsp cumin seeds
1 kg lamb knuckles
3 cloves garlic, grated
2 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 green chillies, deseeded and chopped
1 Tbsp chilli powder
1 ½ Tbsp ground coriander
1 Tbsp ground cumin
1 Tbsp ground turmeric
2 tsp chilli flakes
2 Tbsp mother-in-law masala
3 salad tomatoes, grated
¾ cup plain yoghurt
Handful fresh coriander, chopped
Salt and milled pepper
3½ cups basmati rice, rinsed
Pinch of saffron, steeped in water 

For serving

Tomato and onion sambal
Cucumber raita
Fresh coriander 

Method

  1. Heat half the oil in a pan and fry the potatoes in batches for about 2-3 minutes per side until lightly golden. Set aside. 
  2. Heat remaining oil and ghee in a large pot then sauté onion and whole spices for 6-8 minutes until golden. 
  3. Add lamb and brown for about 5-6 minutes. 
  4. Stir through garlic, ginger, chilli and remaining spices and cook for about 6-8 minutes. 
  5. Top up with water, making sure that the meat is completely submerged in the pot and allow to simmer uncovered for about 15-20 minutes. 
  6. Stir through tomato, potatoes, yoghurt and coriander. Season well and simmer for 5 minutes. 
  7. Cover with washed rice and add saffron. 
  8. Top up with more water if needed so that all the contents of the pot are completely submerged. 
  9. Cover with a lid and simmer over a low heat for about 1½ hours or until meat is fork tender. (Resist the urge to stir). 
  10. Serve while hot with sambal, cucumber raita and fresh coriander. 

 

Words by: Chad January
Photographs: Zhann Solomons 

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