It takes a special touch to transform seemingly everyday ingredients into something as delicate and decadent as nougat. And Ma Mère Confections has got the recipe right. Christi Nortier got a glimpse into their kitchen to understand the science, skill and magic they hold in their hands.
What surprises could come from mixing humdrum sugar into runny egg whites? Done with careful hands and practised timing, the dance between heat and movement brings them together to create something delicate and decadent, classic yet bold. Somehow, they transform into nougat.
Traditional nougat is almost like a blank canvas, believes Lexi Bird, the founder of Ma Mère Confections. Add any number of flavours, textures and ingredients, and you can make it your own. “Nougat has this beautiful old-world charm and nostalgic quality, but at the same time, the sky really is the limit when it comes to creating unexpected and fun flavour combinations,” she says. “It allows me to keep playing and experimenting – whether it is something elegant and refined, or something more playful and surprising. That balance between tradition and creativity is what made me fall in love with nougat, and it is still what keeps me inspired today.”
Lexi started the luxury confectionary business as a one-woman show, doing everything herself – from crafting the nougat at home to manning the trestle table at markets. Now in its 13th year, Ma Mère has grown into a business in which 18 confectioners handmake the range of nougats, biscuits, cordials, Turkish delights, spreads, popcorn treats and bonbons in its very own factory.
You can taste that founding philosophy of supporting local suppliers, upskilling others and making things by hand with care, just as their mothers did. Where will sugar and egg whites take them next?
How did you go from the market trestle table to a full-on factory?
Very gradually, and with a lot of hard work. Like many small businesses, Ma Mère started in a very hands-on, humble way – selling directly to customers, learning what people loved, and building the brand one batch and one relationship at a time.
The market days were such an important foundation because they gave us direct feedback. We could see which flavours people were drawn to, how they responded to the packaging, and how much they valued something handmade and local. From there, demand started to grow. We moved from small-batch production into a more structured manufacturing space, and eventually into a proper factory where we could produce consistently while still keeping the handmade quality at the centre of the business. It has never been about becoming “big” for the sake of it. Growth, for us, has always been about creating a stronger business, more opportunities for our team, and getting our nougat into more hands without losing the soul of the product.
You’ve studied at Le Cordon Bleu cooking and design. How do they allow you to be creative in different ways?
Le Cordon Bleu gave me a deep respect for technique, discipline and ingredients.
In confectionery, you can’t really wing it – timing, temperature and texture all matter. That training taught me to understand the science behind food, but also to appreciate the beauty of doing things properly. Design, on the other hand, lets me tell the story around the product. It is about how something feels before you even taste it – the packaging, the colours, the gifting experience, the way it sits on a shelf. With Ma Mère, those two worlds come together beautifully.
The product has to taste exceptional, but it also needs to look and feel special. That is where I get to be creative in a technical and visual way.
@massimo_capra Culinary school is something that can be extremely valuable, it can provide you a good understanding of the basics and you can get all of your certificates. #cheflife #cheftalk #chefstyle #italianchef #italianfood #culinary #recipe #recipetutorial ♬ original sound – Massimo Capra
You started out as the one making the nougat. How often do you get into the kitchen these days, whether at work or at home?
In the early days I was very much in the kitchen, making the nougat and learning every part of the process. These days, my role has shifted. We have an incredible production team who know the product so well, and it is important that the business does not rely on one person standing over the pot. That said, I still love being close to the kitchen.
At work, I’m involved in product development, tasting, quality checks and problem-solving. I think once you have made the product yourself, you never stop looking at it through that lens.
At home, cooking is more about family and real life.
I am a mom of two, so it’s not always glamorous Le Cordon Bleu cooking – sometimes it’s quick, practical food between school, work and everything else. But I still love the creativity of food and the way it brings people together.
Why is staff upskilling so important to you and your business?
Our team is at the heart of Ma Mère. Handmade confectionery depends on people – their skill, their care, their consistency and their pride in the product. So for us, upskilling is not just a nice idea; it is essential to the quality of what we make. It is also deeply important from a business ethos point of view. I want Ma Mère to be a place where people can grow, learn and build confidence. When someone gains a new skill, it doesn’t only help the business, it also changes how they see themselves and their future.
That matters. The more we invest in our team, the stronger the product becomes. There is a direct link between empowered people and beautiful, consistent, high-quality confectionery.
Another cornerstone of yours is supporting other small, local businesses. What has been your journey in finding and partnering with them?
It has happened quite organically. As a small business ourselves, we understand how much it means when someone chooses to support local.
So wherever possible, we try to build relationships with other South African suppliers, makers and businesses who share our values around quality, care and integrity.
Over the years, we have learned that the best partnerships are built slowly.
It is about finding people who are reliable, passionate about what they do, and willing to grow with you. Whether it is ingredients, packaging, gifting collaborations or retail partners, we always look for alignment – not just on price, but on values. Supporting local creates a ripple effect. When one small business grows, it often creates opportunities for many others around it. That is something we are very proud to be part of.
What are your hopes and dreams for the Ma Mère business, and your team?
My dream is for Ma Mère to continue growing into a proudly South African confectionery brand known for quality, beauty and heart.
I would love to see our products in more hotels, stores, gifting ranges and homes, locally and internationally, while still keeping that handmade, thoughtful feeling that made people fall in love with the brand in the first place.
For the team, my hope is that Ma Mère continues to be a place of opportunity. I want our staff to grow with the business, to gain skills, to take ownership, and to feel proud of what they are creating. The dream is not just to build a successful brand, but to build a business that has a positive impact on the people inside it and the local businesses around it.
At the end of the day, Ma Mère is about more than nougat. It is about craftsmanship, community and creating something beautiful with purpose.
Let’s Talk Nougat
We’re feeling inspired to make nougat ourselves, so while we had the expert on hand we asked for her advice on making magic at home.
@entrepreneur No Machines. Just Real Nougat Making. In Lyon, nougat is still done the old way. Honey, sugar, egg whites, and nuts mixed at the exact right moment by hand. Watching it explains why traditional recipes taste different. #CulinaryTravel #HandmadeFood #Lyon #AuthenticEats ♬ original sound – Entrepreneur
How does a runny egg white transform into a whipped, airy treat? What is the magic that happens?
There is definitely a little bit of science and a little bit of magic involved. Egg white looks so simply, but it is an incredible ingredient. When it is whipped, the proteins stretch and trap air, creating a light, foamy structure. In nougat, that transformation is part of what gives the final product its beautiful texture. But beyond that, the exact way we work with our ingredients is something we’ve perfected over many years, so we don’t go too deeply into the technical details. For us, that transformation is part of the craft of Ma Mère.
How do you go about choosing a good egg?
For us, it starts with using free-range whole eggs. We don’t use powdered egg white in our nougat -whole eggs are part of our traditional approach and part of the quality of the final product. In baking and confectionery, eggs are incredibly important. They are not just another ingredient; they affect structure, texture and consistency.
I always recommend using room temperature eggs rather than eggs straight from the fridge at home, because that temperature difference can affect how the ingredients behave and, ultimately, the quality of the product. For Ma Mère, choosing good eggs is about quality, freshness and respect for the ingredient.
Because nougat is such a sensitive product, every detail matters.
Since you use whole eggs, what do you do with all those yolks and eggshells?
When Ma Mère started, The Creamery started around the same time. Because they made ice cream, they needed yolks, and because we made nougat, we needed whites. So we created a system where we would use the whites and they would use the yolks. It was simple, clever and completely aligned with both businesses’ values. We have kept that relationship alive for 12 years, and we still continue with it today. It is one of those behind-the-scenes partnerships that might seem small, but actually says so much about our principles. We believe in supporting local businesses, being resourceful, and building relationships that last.
With the eggshells, we are also mindful of waste and look for responsible ways to manage what is left over wherever possible.
Does powdered egg white work well in nougat?
Yes, powdered egg white can work very well in nougat. It is a practical option and, if you do not have access to fresh egg whites, you can absolutely use it. At Ma Mère, though, we are very particular about our ingredients and our process.
We choose to use fresh, free-range egg whites because that fits with the ethos of our company and the way we believe nougat should be made.
It is part of our commitment to using quality ingredients, traditional methods and thoughtful sourcing
Why does nougat need rice paper?
Rice paper is one of those wonderfully traditional elements of nougat. Nougat is naturally quite sticky, so the rice paper creates a delicate edible layer that makes it easier to handle, cut, wrap and enjoy. It also gives nougat that classic look and feel. For many people, biting into nougat with rice paper is part of the nostalgic experience.
Do you need a stand mixer or can you use an electric hand mixer? For home use, a stand mixer is definitely easier and safer because nougat can become very thick and heavy. It gives you more control and keeps your hands free. An electric hand mixer might work for a very small home batch, but it can be difficult and tiring, and you need to be extremely careful when working with hot sugar mixtures. If someone is serious about making nougat at home, I would recommend using a stand mixer.
@giallolovesitalyIndulge in the sweet crunch of homemade Torrone! Packed with honey and roasted nuts, it’s the perfect treat for the holiday season. 🎄🥜 Homemade Torrone (Nougat) with Mixed Nuts Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups sugar (320g) 1/2 cup + 1 tbsp honey (200g + 20g) 2 cups mixed nuts (almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios, or others) (400g) 1/2 cup water (120ml) 1/4 cup egg whites (about 2 large whites, 70g) 3 tbsp powdered sugar (25g) 2 sheets of rice paper Instructions: Heat 200g of honey in a saucepan and bring it to 250°F (120°C). In a separate saucepan, combine 320g sugar, 20g honey, and 120ml water, heating until it reaches 285°F (140°C). While the syrups heat, whip the egg whites with powdered sugar until firm peaks form. Gradually drizzle the heated honey (at 250°F) into the whipped egg whites, beating continuously. Then slowly incorporate the hot sugar syrup (at 285°F), mixing until the mixture becomes glossy and smooth. Stir in the mixed nuts (toasted if preferred), ensuring they are evenly distributed. Line a baking pan with a sheet of rice paper, pour in the nougat mixture, and smooth it with a spatula. Place the second rice paper sheet on top, pressing gently to flatten. Allow the nougat to cool and set in a cool, dry place for approximately 10 hours. Slice into pieces and serve. #giallolovesitaly #giallozafferano #HomemadeTorrone #SweetTraditions #HolidayTreats♬ suono originale – GialloZafferano Loves Italy
If you don’t have a sugar thermometer, are there any other indicators that show the syrup is at the correct temperature for mixing in with the egg white?
Traditionally, people would use visual cues and cold-water tests when making confectionery, but I would be cautious about recommending that for nougat. It is a product where precision really matters, and a sugar thermometer gives you much more control. For a home cook, I would say: invest in a thermometer. It is a small tool, but it makes a big difference. Nougat can be temperamental, and guessing can easily lead to a batch that is too soft, too hard, or difficult to work with.
How do you prevent additions like nuts or dried fruit from sinking to the bottom of the nougat mixture?
This comes down to experience, timing and understanding the texture of the nougat – and that is exactly the kind of knowledge we have developed over many years. At Ma Mère, getting the inclusions evenly distributed is part of the craft. We want every piece to have the right balance of nougat, nuts, fruit, chocolate or whatever the flavour calls for. The exact technique is something we keep within our team, but it is a good example of why handmade confectionery requires skill. Small details make a big difference.
Words: Christi Nortier
Photographs: Supplied
Text Courtesy of My Kitchen magazine
