Our Editor-in-Chief Liezl Vermeulen was invited to Arlechinno. Here’s what she made of the elevated eatery. 

It’s in the detail for me. Throughout my entire meal, I kept noticing the thoughtful planning behind the design, the tableside service and the staff’s attentive care. 

Arlecchino at a glance 

The décor drew me in even before the menu could steel my attention.  The playful harlequin theme echoes elegantly throughout the spacious eatery with its thoughtful, quality décor. Trending ruffled design, akin to a clown collar, creates large lighting displays that crowns the roof. Diamond patterns are seen on the silky sleeves of the waiters, umbrella detailing and marble mosaic floors.  

There’s a bold colour scheme of bright-green and peacock blue hues on the furniture, crockery and tabletop details. This is offset set against natural tones of wooden tables and 70’s woven cane chairs. It all comes in subtle variety that has the tasha’s touch of bespoke, high-end eatery.   

Table-side service  

There’s an element of old school charm: a drinks trolley is rolled in by a suit-and-tie’d mixologist, there’s family-style table salads and sharing platters, and – a personal highlight – the subtle theatrics of tableside service.   

A vibrant house salad is assembled and dressed table side, the Sgroppino cocktail mixed next to you, and tiramisu features madeleines that get dressed and doll(op)ed up in front of you. An applause seems fitting. 

Have a seat at our table and see our experience first-hand. 

 

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Light and decadent menu 

The menu, designed by culinary director Jill Okkers, has distinct Italian flair, following the style of the wider Mediterranean, rather than strictly following the region’s culinary rules. (By this I mean the branzino caldo, for example, marries ingredients like Ponzu and soy without screaming Asian, seamlessly blending in next to the rest of the antipasti.) 

With all-day dining, the restaurant shifts, much like a Capetonian, quite effortlessly between business and leisure, light and decadent.  

What I’ll be back for 

To start, the memorable Carpaccio Caccio e pepe (R282) combined paper-thin beef with the temperamental Pecorino-pepper pasta exquisitely. The Crema di feta (R98) – read whipped feta – is made to share and an absolute must.  

It has to be said that the seemingly simplest of plates, the Amalfi lemon bucatini pasta (R172), with smallest price tag on the pasta section was the most memorable to me, showing that the price range of the entire menu shouldn’t stop you from visiting.   

On the sweet front, I’ve seen the hype of the tiramisu – it did not disappoint, finely balancing the bitterness of coffee with a touch of dulce de leche – but it was the pannacotta (R118) that stood out most, perhaps in part because I wasn’t expecting it to shine so bright. Firstly, the contrast of frozen, bitter-sweet grapefruit and orange granita on top of the creamy pannacotta wowed my senses. Secondly, serving it in a glass means they could use less gelatine, which created a just-set texture that really melted in your mouth. The Zabaglione (R138) deserves an honorary mention here for its balance of fresh-meets-sweet and the closest taste of a cloud you could imagine. 

It all screams sophisticated, understated and timeless luxury, but perhaps even louder, it says stay a little longer.   

Words: Liezl Vermeulen
Photography: Adel Ferreira  

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